31 Comments

  1. His workshop is way too tidy. Where is the 1 inch layer of old desoldered components and leg clippings from 1980s through-hole components? I bet you can see his carpet too. Meh 🙂

    Good vid and food for thought

  2. The cotton and motor must be replaced. The cotton should be on the place of the motor and the motor on the cotton. How can you even put the cotton there???

  3. 6:22 i use a Karcher Ds 5500 "old version of the Ds 5800", has 3 stage filter, 1st is water filter, "that could work with activated charcoal", 2nd is a paper filter "to protect the motor", the 3rd stage is a bit small "disappointing", but claims to remove 99.95% of dangerous particles HEPA level 12 filter…" i dont have a molecular detector, "ive seen in vacuum videos, i dont know how does compare vs. the Hakko Fa-430,

  4. Water Evaporates at 100°C, at normal conditions, but if you leave water, it will disappear… i´ve read that light hits the surface of water, and breaks the surface tension, pushing h2o molecules into the air… in theory: hot iron, can also break the surface tension of the Lead, and push Lead molecules into the air-.

  5. It is impossible for the cotton ball to anyhow capture highly volatile organics, which comprises most of the list of the potentially harmful substances you read at the beginning, all you can catch is the solid matter. You need activated charcoal to capture the volatile compounds. What you're capturing is just the tar component. Doesn't mean that you should breathe tar, you shouldn't; just saying.

  6. build an air exhaust ez with a 15 dollar bathroom vent fan from home depot and a couple of vent ducts… some more tinkering required. No need a way to air seal the system so its 100% efficient then a way to seal it off from letting air in or out of your house. (including bugs out)

  7. I found out a easy way to avoid the smoke. What you do is put a heat source near where you solder like a light and the smoke will go to it and collect and condense not going into the room.

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